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La Palma Holiday.
Monday, May 18th, saw us departing for the Canary Isle of La Palma, recommended to us by an old friend who has the same natural history interests as myself.
Los Cancajos in Brena Baya is situated on the rocky west coast, 5 kilometres from the airport.
The first wildlife encountered were four small whites, the orange-coloured canary speckled wood, three blue–throated, brown and beige striped lizards and striking, green and red large crabs, grazing on seaweed attached to surf-pounding rocks.
I renamed the island “Blackcap Island”, as they were to be found singing everywhere – by far the commonest bird around. Chiff Chaff were also calling, but sounding similar to our House Sparrow – very strange!
Birds on the wing were Pallid Swift, Lesser Kestrel and Peregrine.
As the week progressed, our daily saunter along the coastal maquis produced many plants: Canary Island Spurge Bushes, Oleander in profusion, three species of Sea Lavender and the rare Canary Samphire.
As the daily temperature was a pleasant 24C, we regularly stopped to photograph the many endemic flowers. They were in full bloom in the cooler areas of the higher Laurel and Conifer forests, bathed daily by rising sea mist. This swept up over 1000metres to engulf the lichen-filled branches of every tree and shrub. Here, the rare Bols Pigeon was occasionally seen, together with the pastel blue Canary Chaffinch and Berthelot’s Pipit, which readily came to the picnic tables dotted amongst the pines.
As we drove higher, through amazing rock formations of differing hues, we emerged above the clouds into clear blue sky to see the tops of the nearby islands of La Gomera and Tenerife, with its mighty Teide towering above all. We soon reached the famous astronomical observatory of La Palma, glistening white in the sun`s rays. Unfortunately, it was closed on that day, so we were unable to view its workings.
An exciting experience, however, was about to be seen! An incredible sight of around 400 Alpine Chough flew directly over the car and across the moon-like terrain of black, volcanic rock, totally devoid of any sign of life. A new species for me and in such numbers – amazing!
On the long descent to the warmer slopes, more butterflies were to be seen: Brimstone, Cleopatra, Meadow Brown and a single Canary Brown Argus.
I spent some time trying to identify the half- dozen hoverfly I caught, but without success. Happily, I was able to rescue one that had just been grabbed by a yellow crab-spider, which had craftily merged within the florets of a local Taraxacum Dandelion.
On the final day, we visited the nearby capital of Santa Cruz, which is about the size of Lancaster. Its narrow streets are bedecked with ancient wooden balconies and slatted windows, taking us back through the ages. A novel present was bought for my arty daughter. The kit included a plain silk scarf and the dried larvae of cactus lice. The latter could be soaked in hot water to produce cochineal which she could use to dye the scarf herself. She loved the gift!
Adjacent to the port stood a full-size replica of the Santa Maria in all its glory, with a plaque declaring that it’s Captain, Columbus, had lived in the city for a short while – a proud heritage!
We witnessed an annual pageant of bare-back horse riding, by some young daredevils, down the central, cobbled street. They rode at full pelt, trying to snare with a small stick, as many tasselled, coloured nooses as possible which were strung across the street. Achievement of this difficult task was rewarded with colourful sashes, much hollering and applause.
A real carnival end to our holiday!
Brian Hugo.
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